Lithops BROMFIELDII 'INSULARIS'

Lithops BROMFIELDII 'INSULARIS' - Bromfield's lithops 'Insularis', Lithops bromfieldii 'Insularis', Lithops INSULARIS.

'Living Stones' seed series.

Lithops is a unique and very distinctive succulent in the family Aizoaceae. The plant originates from the sandy and stony deserts of South Africa, Botswana, and Namibia, in the south and south-east of Africa.

Lithops have adapted to grow under the scorching sun on quartz, granite, and limestone soils, in the harshest conditions of an arid desert climate. Despite this, they form extensive colonies, sometimes completely submerged in sand or stones. By the coloration of their leaf surface, lithops mimic the stony soil of their locality and thus protect themselves from being eaten by animals.

The above-ground part of a lithops consists of a pair of thick fleshy fused leaves sitting on a short thick stem, which is sometimes absent altogether, and then the leaves attach directly to the root. The leaves are separated by a fissure, at the base of which are meristem cells that form new leaves and flower stalks. The fissure can reach the stem or be quite shallow. The size, shape, and coloration depend on the species: width and height range from 1.5 to 5 cm (0.6 to 2 in), the shape resembles an inverted cone or cylinder. In the upper part, the green-gray, beige, or mauve leaves bear translucent leaf windows covered with spots and patterns through which photosynthesis and gas exchange take place. The root system noticeably exceeds the size of the plant itself, goes deep into the soil, and when drought sets in is capable of pulling the lithops completely into the ground, leaving only the leaf windows on the surface.

Every year the leaves are renewed. At the base of the old pair, a new one is initiated and grows at the expense of nutrients from the old one, with the fissure of the new pair always perpendicular to the fissure of the old one. Sometimes, instead of one new pair, two appear, united by a common root system, and over several years a single pair of leaves grows into an entire colony. In home conditions, a lithops lives for 15-20 years, and in one British botanical garden there is a colony growing that is already more than a hundred years old.

From August to October, flower buds appear in the fissures between the leaves. The flowers are comparable in size to the plant itself and resemble daisies of white, yellow, orange, or pink color. From one fissure emerge 1 to 3 flowers 2.5-5 cm (1-2 in) across with a faint pleasant aroma. In young plants, flowers open in the middle of the day and close at night to conserve moisture, while with age this ceases. Flowering lasts 7-12 days, after which a capsule fruit forms.

Lithops bromfieldii is a succulent perennial, almost devoid of stem. The pair of leaves separated by a fissure has an obconical shape and can be greenish-brown, reddish-brown, green, or whitish, with a flat top covered with flecks and dots. The flower is yellow. The species is highly variable, and in nature it breaks down into several local forms described as separate varieties.

The variety 'Insularis' is the darkest and smallest of them. The plants are noticeably smaller than typical ones, up to 1.5 cm (0.6 in) high, with a smooth surface almost without tubercles, while the window coloration shifts into a deep earthy-green, dark brown, or almost black, without the orange sheen characteristic of the typical variety, with dark shiny lines and dots. The clump grows over time to a dozen or more heads.

Lithops seeds are very small, light brown, and mature in capsules that open from moisture. Soaking such tiny seeds is impractical, so the substrate itself is disinfected: the planting mix is scalded with boiling water or baked in an oven, and the planting container is soaked for 24 hours in a saturated potassium permanganate solution. Scarification and stratification are not required.

Sowing is carried out in a shallow dish with a mixture of 1 part leaf soil and 2 parts coarse-grained sand with perlite, at an interval of 2-3 mm (0.08-0.12 in) between seeds, lightly pressing and sprinkling with a thin layer of sand no more than 1 mm (0.04 in). The sowing is moistened from a spray bottle with a growth stimulant solution: SUPERthrive, HB-101, Aminozol, Epin, or Zircon, placed in a mini-greenhouse or covered with film, and germinated in light, but not under direct rays, at a temperature of 22-28 °C (72-82 °F). To prevent stagnation of condensation, the container is ventilated 1-2 times a day for 10-15 minutes.

Under favorable conditions, the first seedlings appear as early as 7 days, main germination is completed in 7-20 days, and individual seeds may delay for longer than 30 days. After the first seedlings appear, the cover is retained, but the frequency and volume of moistening are reduced so that the upper layer of soil periodically dries out, while ventilation is increased to 4-5 times a day for 10-15 minutes. Drafts, direct sunlight, and overheating above 40 °C (104 °F) are impermissible. When seedlings reach 1 cm (0.4 in) in height and 1-2 mm (0.04-0.08 in) across, the container is uncovered and placed in a well-lit spot under conditions close to adult plant care. The soil surface is mulched with coarse sand or fine pebbles, and seedlings falling onto their sides are straightened with a toothpick and gently pressed in.

Seedlings grow slowly: the first true leaves appear only after six months. For the first year they are left in the sowing container, and only after the first overwintering is the first pricking out carried out - planted tightly, at equal distances from one another, into the same substrate with the addition of a teaspoon of granular superphosphate per 3 liters (0.8 gal) of mix. The root system is carefully spread out, covered with soil and fine gravel that prevents mold growth. The seedlings are covered with film for a month and regularly ventilated, watered less frequently than sowings, allowing the soil to dry to the bottom of the container. After another year, a second pricking out is performed - into individual pots with substrate for adult plants and with corresponding care.

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Growing a lithops at home is not difficult if one takes into account the natural cyclicity of its growth. It is ignorance of the succulent's biology that leads to improper care and the death of the plant. The annual cycle of a lithops consists of four periods, each corresponding to its own rules of care and watering: the growth period, the dormant period, the flowering period, and the renewal period. The most crucial factor is proper watering according to the current period.

During the dormant period, from June to August (in nature this is the dry season with long daylight hours), the lithops neither grows nor blooms, sometimes submerging completely into the ground. It does not need watering and lives on moisture accumulated during the growth period. If the leaves begin to wrinkle, careful moistening of the top centimeter (0.4 in) of substrate is permissible. In early August, fine misting during morning hours is permitted. In nature, lithops withstands up to 50 °C (122 °F), but the optimal range during this period is 23-28 °C (73-82 °F).

During the flowering period, from August to October (in nature the rainy season with decreasing daylight hours), the lithops wakes up, begins to grow intensively, produces a peduncle from the groove between the leaves, flowers, and sets fruit, which ripens over several months. From mid-August, watering is resumed and gradually increased: watered abundantly but infrequently, with mandatory complete drying of the substrate. Abundant moisture stimulates flowering in plants older than three years. When flowering ends, watering is reduced so that the plant transitions smoothly into the next period. The temperature at this time is kept not below 20 °C (68 °F).

During the renewal period, from October to March (in nature the dry season with short daylight hours), the lithops enters a state of slow growth, which many mistakenly call a second dormant period. The plant continues to develop, but outwardly this is unnoticeable, and it may even appear to be dying: in fact, inside the old pair a new one is growing, drawing nutrients from it. Over time, the old pair wrinkles, dries up, and ruptures, releasing the young leaves. At this time the plant is not watered at all, but it requires good lighting and a temperature of 10-15 °C (50-59 °F), not below 7 °C (45 °F). Watering ceases completely until early March.

During the growth period, from March to June (in nature the rainy season with increasing daylight hours), the new pair of succulent leaves begins active vegetation. Watering is cautiously resumed and gradually increased during March, brought to a maximum by mid-April, and reduced toward the end of May. The plant increases in volume, accumulating moisture. From the beginning of spring, an optimal temperature is around 20 °C (68 °F).

Watering must be careful and moderate, with drying of the substrate between waterings: excess moisture leads to rotting of leaves and roots. Experienced growers water from the tray or by immersion, draining excess water after 10 minutes. For beginners, these methods are not recommended; it is better to use a fine spray bottle, but it is important that moisture reaches deep into the container: lithops has a long root. Water must not enter the fissure between the leaves, otherwise they will rot or suffer sunburn. Water should be filtered or settled, soft and warm. Lithops is indifferent to air humidity; misting is used only during transition phases between periods. The plant needs fresh air and regular ventilation without drafts.

Lithops require bright sunlight throughout the year. 4-5 hours of direct sun in the morning on a southern, southeastern, or eastern window with partial shade after midday is sufficient. As an alternative, 12 hours of artificial lighting with fluorescent or LED lamps at a distance of 10-15 cm (3.9-5.9 in) from the plant is suitable. Western and southwestern windows are less acceptable, northern windows are entirely unsuitable, as is placement deep inside a room. In early spring, lithops on southern windows are shaded for 1-2 weeks so they do not get sunburned. Plants deprived of light for 4-5 days become thin, stretch out, lose coloration brightness, and may perish, and with systematic lack of light in summer they do not bloom. The location of the plant should not be changed without good reason.

Lithops grow slowly and need repotting once every 3-5 years, in spring or summer. For planting, wide, light-colored pots 6-8 cm (2.4-3.1 in) deep are chosen, with an obligatory drainage layer of about 2 cm (0.8 in) at the bottom; in clay pots, drainage is not strictly necessary. The container size should be slightly larger than the root system. The top layer of soil is sprinkled with decorative pebbles and gravel - this prevents root collar rot.

The substrate should be stony, poor, loose, and of neutral acidity. Commercial cactus mixes are not suitable due to high peat content. A mix of light turf soil with coarse sand or fine gravel in equal parts is used, or a mixture of 2 parts turf soil, 1 part leaf humus, 3 parts coarse river sand, and 2 parts crushed brick. The prepared substrate is necessarily disinfected before planting.

Lithops are capable of obtaining everything necessary from water and substrate, so fertilizing is not mandatory. But if the plant has not been repotted for more than 2-3 years, fertilizer for cacti and succulents is applied at half dosage during watering, twice a year: in early May and late August.

With proper care, lithops rarely fall ill and hardly suffer from pests. In winter, fungus gnats, spider mites, and mealybugs sometimes appear on them: insecticides are used against gnats and mealybugs, and acaricides against mites, strictly according to instructions. Lithops most often perish from rotting of stems and roots due to an excess of moisture from improper watering and poor drainage. In case of disease, watering is sharply curtailed and the plant is treated with a fungicide.