Myrtle is not particularly demanding in home care, but may not forgive its owner forgotten watering, lack of fertilizer, or overly dry air. It grows slowly relative to other house plants - under favorable conditions, its annual growth may be only 10-15 cm (4-6 in).
Myrtle is very sensitive to conditions during the adaptation period. The plant quite frequently drops leaves after purchase due to the change from greenhouse conditions to indoor room environments. In that case, it is recommended to mist it with succinic acid or 'Epin' and temporarily place it under a clear plastic bag. Next, the plant must be aired daily (avoiding drafts!) and provided with bright diffused light. During the adaptation period, try not to alter lighting, watering regime, or misting frequency.
For successful development, it is necessary to provide a large amount of diffused light. It will endure brief exposure to direct rays without issue, but when placing the pot on the south side of an apartment, one must consider additional protection during the summer period. The optimal location is on the western or eastern side, where it will receive sufficient light without the risk of burns. It can also be placed on a northern window, but this may affect the quality of flowering. One can immediately tell a lack of light from the plant: its twigs will be thin, leaves will become small, sparse, and acquire a lime-green hue. When moving myrtle from a dark area to a brighter one, do not do this abruptly - it must be gradually acclimated to the increased amount of light. For growth during the summer period, a moderate temperature is needed - within +18-20 °C (64-68 °F). In winter, on the contrary, it is desirable to ensure a temperature of +6-8 °C (43-46 °F). In that case, it will bloom abundantly and beautifully in summer.
Myrtle loves humidity, so from spring to autumn it should be misted regularly. In winter, if room temperature is maintained, misting is not required. Watering must be done only with settled water; do not use chlorinated or hard water. From spring to autumn, generous watering is performed once the top layer of soil dries out. In winter under proper temperature conditions (+6-8 °C (43-46 °F)), watering is rare and restricted; otherwise, thorough. Allowing the soil to become a dry clump must not be permitted, but if that happens, immersing the pot entirely in water is recommended.
Excessive watering and water stagnation in the pot are equally fatal - this can lead to root system decay and infestation by bacteria and fungi. After watering, water from the drip tray must be drained without fail. To stimulate growth, feeding can be done from spring to autumn every two weeks. Organic or mineral fertilizers are used. In winter, feeding is unnecessary. It is undesirable to use mixes containing lime. After repotting, fertilizer application must be suspended for 1-1.5 months.
The best time for repotting is early spring, before the onset of the flowering period. Young plants must be repotted every year, choosing a pot 2-3 cm (0.8-1.2 in) larger than the previous one. It is important during the procedure not to bury the base of the trunk into the soil. Subsequently, the procedure can be performed once every 2-3 years, replacing the top and bottom soil layers and adding fresh drainage. The optimal soil composition is one part each of peat, humus, and sand, and two parts turf soil. For drainage, expanded clay or washed pebbles are best used. Under no circumstances should styrofoam be used for this purpose - it compresses under soil pressure, preventing it from breathing, which leads to acidification and root rot. It tolerates pruning excellently, so overly overgrown specimens can be trimmed, including to give the crown the desired shape.