Lithops AUCAMPIAE 'FLUMINALIS'

Lithops AUCAMPIAE 'FLUMINALIS' - Aucamp's living stone 'Fluminalis', Lithops aucampiae 'Fluminalis', Lithops aucampiae.

"Living Stones" seed series.

Lithops is a unique and original succulent from the family Aizoaceae, possessing incomparable ornamental qualities. The homeland of the plant is the sandy and stony deserts of South Africa, Botswana, and Namibia in the southern and southeastern parts of Africa.

Lithops have adapted to growing under the scorching sun rays on quartz, granite, or limestone soils in the harshest conditions of an arid desert climate. Despite the extreme conditions, they form extensive colonies, sometimes completely submerged in sand or stones. Possessing the ability to mimic the surrounding environment, lithops imitate the stony ground of their native habitat with the coloring of their leaf surfaces to escape grazing by animals.

The above-ground part of a lithops consists of a pair of dense fleshy leaves fused together, sitting on a short thick stem that is sometimes absent altogether, with the leaves attached directly to the root. The leaves are separated by a fissure, at the base of which are meristem cells that form new leaves and peduncles. The fissure can reach the stem or be quite shallow. Depending on the species, the size, shape, and coloration of the plant vary. The width and height range from 1.5 to 5 cm (0.6 to 2.0 in), and the shape can repeat an inverted cone or cylinder. In the upper part, green-gray, beige, or lilac leaves have translucent leaf windows covered with spots or patterns, through which the processes of photosynthesis and gas exchange take place. The root system significantly exceeds the size of the plant itself, goes deeply into the soil, and when drought sets in, thanks to a special mechanism, is capable of completely pulling the plant into the ground, leaving only the leaf windows on the surface.

Every year, leaf renewal occurs. At the base of the old pair of leaves, a new one is born, which grows using nutrients from the old one. The fissure of the new pair of leaves is always perpendicular to the fissure of the old one. Sometimes, instead of one new pair of leaves, two appear, united by a common root system, as a result of which, over several years, a single pair of leaves grows into an entire colony. Under home conditions, a lithops can live for 15-20 years; however, in a British botanical garden there lives a colony that is already over a hundred years old.

In the period from August to October, buds begin to appear in the fissures between the leaves. The flowers of lithops are comparable in size to the dimensions of the plant itself and outwardly resemble daisies of white, yellow, orange, or pink color. From one fissure, 1 to 3 flowers 2.5-5 cm (1.0-2.0 in) in diameter with a faint pleasant aroma can appear. In young plants, to conserve moisture, the flowers open in the middle of the day and close for the night, which ceases as they mature. Because of this feature, lithops were formerly called "mesembryanthemum", which translated from Greek means "flower blooming at midday". Flowering lasts 7-12 days, after which a fruit appears in the form of a capsule.

Aucamp's living stone 'Fluminalis' - leaf coloration is green, bluish-gray, or brownish, with darker coalescing irregular spots. Flowers are yellow.

Before planting, seeds are soaked for 5-6 hours in a weak solution of potassium permanganate or fungicide with the addition of stimulants (SUPERthrive, HB-101, Aminozol, Epin, or Zircon). The planting container is sterilized for 24 hours in a saturated solution, and the planting mix is scalded with boiling water or baked in an oven. Next, they are sown in a shallow dish with a mixture of 1 part leaf soil and 2 parts coarse sand and perlite at an interval of 2-3 mm (0.08-0.12 in), slightly embedded and sprinkled with a thin layer of sand no more than 1 mm (0.04 in). They are moistened from a spray bottle, placed in a greenhouse or covered with film, and germinated in light, but not under direct sunlight, at a temperature of 22-28 °C (72-82 °F). Sprouts need ventilation and watering. Moistening is still performed from a spray bottle. Overwatering and complete drying out of sowings must be avoided. To avoid prolonged condensation retention, the container is ventilated 1-2 times a day for 10-15 minutes.

Seedlings appear within 7-20 days. The maximum germination period can be more than 30 days. After the first seedlings appear, greenhouse conditions are maintained, but the frequency and volume of moistening are reduced so that the upper soil layer periodically dries out. The frequency and duration of ventilations are increased to 4-5 times a day for 10-15 minutes. Drafts, direct sunlight, and overheating of the air above 40 °C (104 °F) must be avoided. When seedlings reach 1 cm (0.4 in) in height and 1-2 mm (0.04-0.08 in) in diameter, the sowing container is opened and placed in a well-lit spot, under conditions close to keeping adult plants. The soil surface is mulched with coarse sand or fine pebbles. Seedlings fallen on their side are straightened into a vertical position using a toothpick and gently pressed in.

Seedlings grow slowly; the first true leaves appear only after six months. The first year they are left in the planting container, and after they survive the first winter, the first pricking out is carried out: seedlings are planted closely at equal distances from each other into the same soil with the addition of 1 teaspoon of granular superphosphate per 3 liters (0.8 gal) of mix. The root system is carefully straightened out, sprinkled with soil and fine gravel preventing the appearance of mold. Seedlings are covered with film for a month and regularly ventilated, watered less frequently than seeds with drying of the soil to the bottom of the container. A year later, a second pricking out is performed into individual pots with soil for adult plants with appropriate care.

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Growing lithops under home conditions is an uncomplicated task if the natural growth cycle of the plant is taken into account. Lack of knowledge about the succulent's biology leads to improper care and, as a consequence, its demise. The unusual annual growth cycle of lithops consists of four periods, each corresponding to its own rules of care and watering: growth period, dormant period, flowering period, and renewal period. The most critical factor for maintaining lithops is correct watering in accordance with the periods of its life cycle.

During the dormant period from June to August (in nature the dry season with long daylight hours), lithops does not grow, does not bloom, and sometimes completely submerges into the soil. At this time the plant, being in a dormant period, does not need watering and uses the moisture accumulated during the growth period. In case of leaf wrinkling, careful moistening of the top 1 cm (0.4 in) of the soil layer is permitted. In early August, fine-mist spraying of the plant during morning hours is permitted. In natural conditions, lithops withstands temperatures up to 50 °C (122 °F), but the optimal range during this period is 23-28 °C (73-82 °F).

During the flowering period from August to October (in nature the rainy season with decreasing daylight hours), lithops wakes up, begins intensive growth, produces a peduncle from the groove between the leaves, blooms, and begins ripening fruit, which lasts several months. From mid-August, watering is resumed and increased. The plant is watered abundantly but rarely, with mandatory complete drying of the soil. Abundant moistening stimulates flowering in lithops older than 3 years. With the end of flowering, watering is reduced for a smooth transition of the plant into the next period of the cycle. During this period, it is necessary to maintain a temperature not lower than 20 °C (68 °F).

During the renewal period from October to March (in nature the dry season with short daylight hours), after flowering ends, lithops enters a state of slow growth, which many mistakenly call a second dormant period. The plant continues to develop slowly; however, this process is visually imperceptible; moreover, it may seem that the plant is dying, but this is a new pair of leaves beginning its vegetation, forming at the growth point of the old pair. New leaves grow inside the old ones, sucking out their nutrients. Over time, the old pair wrinkles, dries up, thins out, and ruptures, releasing the young leaves. At this time the plant does not need watering or moistening, but requires good lighting and keeping at a temperature of 10-15 °C (50-59 °F), not lower than 7 °C (45 °F). Watering is completely stopped until early March.

During the growth period from March to June (in nature the rainy season with increasing daylight hours), the new pair of succulent leaves that has taken the place of the old one begins the process of active vegetation. The appearance and development of new leaves begins a new life cycle for the lithops, while dying old leaves complete the previous one. Watering is carefully resumed and gradually increased during March, brought to a maximum by mid-April, and reduced toward the end of May. The plant increases in volume through moisture accumulation. From early spring, the optimal temperature is around 20 °C (68 °F).

Watering must be careful and moderate, with soil drying between waterings. Excess moisture can lead to rotting of leaves and roots. Experienced growers water from the tray or by immersion, draining excess water after 10 minutes. For beginners these methods are not recommended; it is better to use a fine spray bottle to moisten the soil and air, but it is very important that moisture reaches deep into the container, as lithops has a long root. Water must not enter the groove between the leaves, as this can provoke their rotting or sunburn. Filtered or settled, soft and warm water is used. Lithops is indifferent to air humidity; misting can be used as moistening during transition stages between periods. The plant requires fresh air and regular ventilation of the room without drafts.

Lithops require bright sunlight throughout the year. Being under direct sunlight for 4-5 hours in the morning on a south, southeast, or east window followed by partial shade in the afternoon will be sufficient. As an alternative, 12-hour artificial lighting with fluorescent or LED lamps located at a distance of 10-15 cm (3.9-5.9 in) from the plant is permitted. Western and southwestern windows are less acceptable; northern ones must not be used at all, just as placing plants deep inside a room. In early spring, lithops growing on a south window should be shaded for 1-2 weeks to avoid burns. Plants deprived of lighting for 4-5 days become thin, stretch out, lose brightness of coloration, and can die. With systematic lack of light in the summer period, the plant will not bloom. Changing location is not recommended.

Lithops grow slowly and need repotting once every 3-5 years in spring or summer. For planting, wide light-colored containers 6-8 cm (2.4-3.1 in) deep are chosen with a mandatory drainage layer at the bottom of about 2 cm (0.8 in). In clay pots, adding drainage is not mandatory. The container size is chosen slightly larger than the root system size. They are planted in groups of 3-5 plants, as when placed singly they develop much worse and rarely bloom. The top layer of soil is sprinkled with various decorative pebbles and gravel as prevention of root collar rot.

The substrate must be stony, poor, loose, and possess neutral acidity. Due to high peat content, using ready-made cactus soils is not recommended. A mixture of light turf soil with coarse sand or fine gravel in equal parts is used. A more complex mixture can also be used, consisting of 2 parts turf soil, 1 part leaf humus, 3 parts coarse river sand, and 2 parts brick chips. The prepared substrate is necessarily disinfected before planting.

Lithops are able to obtain all necessary nutrients from water and soil; consequently, fertilizing is not mandatory. But if the plant has not been repotted for more than 2-3 years, special fertilizers for cacti and succulents in half dose can be used during watering. Feeding can be done twice a year: in early May and late August.

With proper care, lithops rarely get sick and are seldom subjected to pest attacks. During the winter period, plants can be damaged by fungus gnats, spider mites, and mealybugs. There are various folk remedies for combating these pests, but it is more effective to use ready-made insecticidal preparations according to the instructions. Lithops fall sick and die most often from rotting of stems and roots due to an excess of moisture resulting from improper watering and poor drainage. In case of disease, watering must be sharply curtailed and the plant treated with fungicides against fungi.