Aloe FEROX

Aloe FEROX - Bitter aloe, Cape aloe, Aloe ferox.

Rare endangered species!

Aloe is a genus of very popular succulent plants belonging to the family Asphodelaceae. This genus numbers approximately 400 species and includes a large number of plants that have fleshy and very succulent leaves with fairly soft spines located on them. There are shrubby, tree-like, and herbaceous forms, as well as lianas. In the wild, aloe can be found in Africa, with a large number of species growing on the Arabian Peninsula and in Madagascar. Translated from Arabic, 'aloe' means 'bitter'.

These plants have not very large tubular flowers, colored, as a rule, red, orange, white, or yellow. The flowers are located on a peduncle of considerable length, in a terminal multiflowered raceme. Indoors, it practically does not bloom. Aloe lives in a flower pot for 5-20 years, which is why it is also called 'century plant'.

Absolutely all cultivated species of aloe are suitable for indoor cultivation, and they can even be used to green children's rooms. It is often used as a 'home doctor'. The plant is very unpretentious, and there are usually never any problems associated with its care. This plant can easily withstand a lack of light, moisture, and warmth. Those species that were previously rarely grown are now increasingly adorning winter gardens. The century plant will be an excellent addition when composing arrangements that include slow-growing plants.

Aloe ferox is a very rare plant in nature, listed as an endangered species. It can grow up to 3 m (10 ft) in height. Leaves are thick, fleshy, arranged in rosettes, with reddish-brown spines along the margins and small spines on the upper and lower surfaces. The flowers are orange or red on erect peduncles 0.5-1 m (1.6-3.3 ft) above the leaves. It is widely cultivated on plantations for its leaves, which possess medicinal properties. On plantations, seedlings are planted in rows 1 m (3.3 ft) apart, and after 4-5 years the crop is harvested, with each leaf weighing about 1.5 kg to 2 kg (3.3 to 4.4 lb).

Seeds are pre-soaked for 4-6 hours in a weak solution of potassium permanganate or fungicide with the addition of stimulants (SUPERthrive, HB-101, Aminozol, Epin, or Zircon), then sown in a moist substrate consisting of leaf mold and river sand poured over expanded clay that has been scalded with boiling water. Sowing substrate similar to that used for adeniums can be used. The sowing is moistened with a spray bottle, placed in a propagator or covered with film, and germinated in light, but not in direct sun, at a temperature of 21-26 °C (70-79 °F). Seedlings need ventilation. Overwatering and drying out of the sowings must be avoided.

When propagating aloe by seed, cultivar traits may split. Seeds usually germinate from 3-4 weeks to 2-3 months, depending on conditions. Pricking out is performed after the appearance of 2-3 true leaves. Young plants are gradually accustomed to lower humidity and brighter light.

An alternative method of germinating seeds in distilled water or a 10% solution of growth stimulants is possible. The seeds are placed in a small container of water, where they float at first but then sink. Germination occurs unevenly starting from 4 weeks, but can take several months. The water is changed every few days. Seeds are removed one by one as they germinate and placed into a substrate of equal parts sand and compost.

The critical point of this method is embedding the seed in the substrate with the root pointed strictly downward, as it can push the seed outward instead of developing inward. Rising seeds are not pressed back down, but are covered with a teaspoon of soil from above. Over the course of 4 weeks, each seed must be closely monitored and sprouts guided to secure the root.

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Aloe, like almost all succulents, is undemanding in care. The century plant loves light very much, and therefore it is best placed on windowsills facing south. However, it can also be grown in shaded spots, but keep in mind that with a severe lack of light, the aloe leaves will stretch and become pale. In summer, the plant can be moved outdoors, but rainwater should not be allowed to fall on it. A century plant that has spent a long time outdoors has clear advantages over one grown exclusively indoors: it develops stronger spines and a well-formed stem.

In summer, aloe needs fairly generous watering. In winter, on the other hand, it should be watered very rarely, using exclusively room-temperature water or slightly warmer. If watering is too meager, the leaves will become very thin and contain little juice. Because the century plant's roots are very thick and fill the pot entirely, when watering, water drains into the drip tray almost without delay. For this reason, it makes sense to water the plant by pouring water into the drip tray rather than into the pot. Moreover, the finest roots capable of absorbing moisture are located at the very bottom. To avoid root rot, pour out any remaining liquid from the drip tray 30 minutes after watering. Air humidity does not matter for aloe. However, it occasionally needs a warm shower to clean dust off the leaves.

In summer, the century plant requires moderate air temperatures, and with the onset of winter it should be moved to a cooler room. The plant tolerates sharp temperature fluctuations well. Thus, most species can withstand temperature drops down to 6 °C (43 °F). However, there are also species that require temperatures of no less than 15 °C (59 °F).

You can make the soil mix yourself by blending leaf mold and sod soil with sand and humus in a 1:2:1:1 ratio. Also add charcoal and crushed brick. Peat should not be included. The soil should have a slightly acidic reaction. You can also purchase a ready-made soil mix for cacti; adding a little crushed brick and charcoal to it is recommended. While the plant is young, repotting is carried out every year. Mature aloe requires repotting much less frequently, once every 2 or 3 years. Deep pots are chosen for this, and good drainage should not be forgotten.

Feeding is carried out only once every 4 weeks and only during the spring-summer period. A mineral fertilizer for succulents and cacti is used for this (mixed as a very weak solution). Feeding should be stopped in mid-autumn and withheld until spring.

Scale insects can target the plant. To get rid of them, wipe the leaves as often as possible with a cloth dampened with soapy water.